It’s not a question of if but when hundreds of millions of people all over the world make resale their new healthy habit.
Former President, Diane Von Furstenberg
& thredUP Board Member
For decades, secondhand and vintage have been the secret weapon of designers and fashion insiders. One unique find can be the inspiration for an entire design concept, collection, or runway show. Repurposing a garment or finding a unique print can be the catalyst to the creative process that ultimately ignites or re-ignites a worldwide trend.
But in the era of e-commerce, street style, and Instagram, resale is no longer a Seventh Avenue secret; the secret is out. More and more savvy shoppers, from busy moms to style seekers, are searching online resale sites in pursuit of one-of-a-kind accessories, everyday basics, and stylish clothing at big discounts. This treasure hunt is a fun, smart, and cost-effective way to create your own unique closet.
Consumers are thinking differently about how they spend their money, and they are getting more style, more confidence, and more options.
On top of it all, it feels good to shop resale. The fact that everything you buy can be re-sold only makes the opportunity more attractive and sustainable. It’s consumption without the elements that make consumers feel guilty or “conspicuous.” That is a powerful and compelling quality in an era when consumers want to do the right thing and set an example.
The secondhand industry is gaining incredible momentum. With heightened interest from consumers, investors and retailers, online resale is becoming a way of life.
Having spent the last 30 years in the fashion industry, I have seen many trends come and go. But online resale is changing the rules and creating a better experience for a new generation of consumers. So for me, it’s not a question of if but when hundreds of millions of people all over the world make resale their new healthy habit.
For decades, secondhand and vintage have been the secret weapon of designers and fashion insiders. One unique find can be the inspiration for an entire design concept, collection, or runway show. Repurposing a garment or finding a unique print can be the catalyst to the creative process that ultimately ignites or re-ignites a worldwide trend.
But in the era of e-commerce, street style, and Instagram, resale is no longer a Seventh Avenue secret; the secret is out. More and more savvy shoppers, from busy moms to style seekers, are searching online resale sites in pursuit of one-of-a-kind accessories, everyday basics, and stylish clothing at big discounts. This treasure hunt is a fun, smart, and cost-effective way to create your own unique closet.
Consumers are thinking differently about how they spend their money, and they are getting more style, more confidence, and more options.
On top of it all, it feels good to shop resale. The fact that everything you buy can be re-sold only makes the opportunity more attractive and sustainable. It’s consumption without the elements that make consumers feel guilty or “conspicuous.” That is a powerful and compelling quality in an era when consumers want to do the right thing and set an example.
The secondhand industry is gaining incredible momentum. With heightened interest from consumers, investors and retailers, online resale is becoming a way of life.
Having spent the last 30 years in the fashion industry, I have seen many trends come and go. But online resale is changing the rules and creating a better experience for a new generation of consumers. So for me, it’s not a question of if but when hundreds of millions of people all over the world make resale their new healthy habit.
This is not your grandma's thrift store anymore. High-quality resale is a multi-billion dollar industry and is among the fastest growing segments in retail. With the emergence of online and mobile players, resale is attracting consumers from all economic levels. And with resale penetration still relatively low, this should lead to outsized growth for many years to come.
The growth in online resale is fueled by wallet capture from adjacent markets such as value retail and offline thrift. Value retail, which includes off-price retailers, outlet stores, discounters, and mainstream department stores, is a $175 billion market and growing. Offline thrift is a $12 billion market today and an increasing portion of this market is moving online in search of a wider selection of brands and styles. This will prevent meaningful growth for offline thrift in the coming decade.
But the online resale market has consolidated rapidly as a select group of companies have accelerated away from the pack with outsized scale and business models that support profitable growth. Given the market size and long-term growth prospects, we expect there to be several winners serving distinct segments of the customer value chain.
TM —Traditional Marketplace
Brings buyers and sellers together within a hosted platform to perform transactions. Often referred to as a peer-to-peer marketplace. eBay and Craigslist were pioneers in this category and still have significant market share.
AM —Augmented Marketplace
An augmented marketplace adds valuable customer-friendly activities and takes on additional parts of the value chain (logistics, photography, customer service) to deliver a more convenient customer experience. Most importantly, augmented marketplaces make it possible for more people to participate in the service.
Resale is now a desirable trait, and it all started with cars. Consumers bought “used cars” until dealers and manufacturers understood the segmentation opportunity provided by “certified pre-owned.” By getting a customer into a branded, certified pre-owned car, you could build a customer for life. Electronic manufacturers have done the same thing through their “refurbishment” programs. In the past, we bought “used electronics,” now we buy “factory refurbished” phones, computers, tablets, TVs, etc. In both cars and electronics, “trade-in” is now a normal part of the product lifecycle and value proposition as brands try to maintain customer relationships and engagement.
The same thing is happening in apparel, and the smartest brands and retailers are engaging with companies in the resale space to find mutually beneficial ways to work together. In addition, overall consumer sentiment has shifted, with resale becoming a natural part of the social conversation around smart and conscientious living. We expect these to be major themes in the next few years.
Did you know? 85% of all clothing that gets donated ends up in landfills. A meager 15% of what we donate ends up being recycled and most of this recycled product ends up overseas. Together, retail and resale can do more together to reduce waste.
Brands with a strong resale footprint enable customers who couldn’t otherwise afford the brand to experience it for the first time. At some point, these customers often jump to buying new. For customers accustomed to buying new, strong resale value only makes them more likely to keep buying a brand, knowing they can re-coup a portion of its cost in the resale market. Note: All data based on 2015 thredUP sales.
W S S F refers to Winter Spring Summer Fall
These cities have the greatest amount of resale activity.
Cities with the largest year-over-year increase in resale activity.
Resale has really taken off recently in these cities.
Item | Quantity | Retail Price | Retail Total | Secondhand Total Cost |
---|---|---|---|---|
Jeans | 3 | $85 | $255 | $153 |
Sweaters | 2 | $38 | $76 | $53 |
Shoes/Boots | 3 | $68 | $204 | $112 |
Activewear | 3 | $34 | $102 | $56 |
Outerwear | 1 | $80 | $80 | $48 |
Dresses | 4 | $49 | $196 | $127 |
Casual Tops | 7 | $20 | $140 | $98 |
Blouses | 3 | $28 | $84 | $59 |
Bottoms | 3 | $36 | $108 | $70 |
Handbags | 1 | $100 | $100 | $55 |
Accessories | 3 | $28 | $84 | $46 |
$1,429 | $878 ~61.5% savings |
In the past the best you could do was fill up a trash bag with regrets and either haul it off to your local thrift shop, consignment store or dumpster, or give it away to family, friends or charities.
Today, full service companies like thredUP, Rent the Runway and TheRealReal offer convenient ways to simplify closet maintenance.
More than seven years ago, I opened my closet and for the first time had nothing to wear. It was this moment in Cambridge, MA back in 2008 that the seeds for thredUP were sown. We’ve come a long way since then. This past year was a formative one for the resale industry with a number of early pioneers closing their doors or being acquired. Why? Because this is a hard business. The logistics and operational complexity to process tens of thousands (and soon hundreds of thousands) of items per day and deliver an amazing customer experience is not for the faint of heart!
But at the end of the day, businesses exist to serve the demands of customers and 2015 was a year when customers really spoke up with their wallets. They are coming to resale platforms like
thredUP in droves to find unique pieces of clothing they couldn’t find elsewhere or could not afford to buy new.
This is the most exciting part for me. It’s about providing access and opportunity to wear the brands and style that you love at affordable prices. It’s about finding those fun pieces that you would never have bought new, but are just perfect for the right occasion at the right price.
And finally, it’s about purpose. Our mission continues to be to inspire a new generation of consumers to think secondhand first. I have never been more confident that we’re on our way to making this a reality. Fun, fashion, and purpose is what we’re all about at thredUP and 2016 is going be another big year in resale.
More than seven years ago, I opened my closet and for the first time had nothing to wear. It was this moment in Cambridge, MA back in 2008 that the seeds for thredUP were sown. We’ve come a long way since then. This past year was a formative one for the resale industry with a number of early pioneers closing their doors or being acquired. Why? Because this is a hard business. The logistics and operational complexity to process tens of thousands (and soon hundreds of thousands) of items per day and deliver an amazing customer experience is not for the faint of heart!
But at the end of the day, businesses exist to serve the demands of customers and 2015 was a year when customers really spoke up with their wallets. They are coming to resale platforms like thredUP in droves to find unique pieces of clothing they couldn’t find elsewhere or could not afford to buy new.
This is the most exciting part for me. It’s about providing access and opportunity to wear the brands and style that you love at affordable prices. It’s about finding those fun pieces that you would never have bought new, but are just perfect for the right occasion at the right price.
And finally, it’s about purpose. Our mission continues to be to inspire a new generation of consumers to think secondhand first. I have never been more confident that we’re on our way to making this a reality. Fun, fashion, and purpose is what we’re all about at thredUP and 2016 is going be another big year in resale.